Are old singer machines up for leatherwork?

[Tom Cart]

I'm starting to feel the itch for a sewing machine to help with some of the lighter work lilke wallets, belts, maybe a small bag or two. I've come across a bunch of vintage Singer machines locally, and I'm wondering… are any of the old singers actually suitable for leatherworking? I know they're built like tanks, but can they really handle leather without burning out the motor or skipping stitches? If you've had success (or failures) using a classic Singer on leather, I'd love to hear your experiences

 

[LeatherTracker]

I think as long as you're not asking too much of it, any of the vintage ones will do the trick. Belts, wallets, stuff like that will be fine, but keep in mind of the thickness, I doubt they can handle anything

 

[Neuro901]

Vintage Singers can handle light leatherwork like wallets and belts pretty well, but be cautious with thicker leather, the motor's great but you might need to adjust tension and use the right needle.

 

[shiba inu]

I'm starting to feel the itch for a sewing machine to help with some of the lighter work lilke wallets, belts, maybe a small bag or two. I've come across a bunch of vintage Singer machines locally, and I'm wondering… are any of the old singers actually suitable for leatherworking? I know they're built like tanks, but can they really handle leather without burning out the motor or skipping stitches? If you've had success (or failures) using a classic Singer on leather, I'd love to hear your experiences

Agree with @Neuro901 regarding Singers. I really like those too, as my dear old grandma had one.

 

[allaroundguy]

like what the others advised above, if it's not too thick. i think the vintage sewing machine can handle them.

 

[Alan]

I have seen a friend use an old Singer with heavy-duty thread and heavy-duty needles.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I'm starting to feel the itch for a sewing machine to help with some of the lighter work lilke wallets, belts, maybe a small bag or two. I've come across a bunch of vintage Singer machines locally, and I'm wondering… are any of the old singers actually suitable for leatherworking? I know they're built like tanks, but can they really handle leather without burning out the motor or skipping stitches? If you've had success (or failures) using a classic Singer on leather, I'd love to hear your experiences

I have a Singer Spartan. I bought it in the 1990's from a lady who got it as a wedding gift. It was used when she got it, and a decade old, but it was also the Great Depression when she got married. It was the "improved" model... it had an electric motor instead of a treadle.

It works just fine sewing through thick leather and forming a stitch, when you put the proper leather needle in the machine, BUT I found that even on the widest setting it still is too fine a stitch, and I ended up cutting the test leather like a piece of perforated paper. No way it would work for a leather seam.

Singer made some models for things like sewing canvas and leather, and you might need to do some research as I think the stitching needs to be just a tad wider than what is offered on a 1920's era machine.

LD

 

[photographXYZ]

I'm starting to feel the itch for a sewing machine to help with some of the lighter work lilke wallets, belts, maybe a small bag or two. I've come across a bunch of vintage Singer machines locally, and I'm wondering… are any of the old singers actually suitable for leatherworking? I know they're built like tanks, but can they really handle leather without burning out the motor or skipping stitches? If you've had success (or failures) using a classic Singer on leather, I'd love to hear your experiences

Some of those old Singers like the 15-91 or 201-1 can chew through light leather if you go slow and use the right needle. Don't expect them to be very heavy duty, but they'll surprise you. What you need to do is keep the leather thin and manage your expectations.

 

[Joe Ford]

I have used an ancient Singer Featherweight for light, garment-weight buckskin pouches and edging a shooting bag flap. Use a heavy canvas/denim needle and as heavy a thread as you can get thru the eye,and set stitch length as wide as your machine will go. That is, the lowest # stitches per inch.
Tight stitching will cut the leather.
Thread tension adjustment is tricky, but if you get it right, it does save lots of time ( and pain, if you have arthritis).
However, machine stitching will always look like machine stitching; it's best for hidden seams.